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Australia
A whistle-stop tour of Australia by Charmaine Hallmark
Hands up if you haven't been to Australia yet? And how long have you been saying, "One of these days..."? Australia is just a day away, so come on...beat the rush! You could send off for all the brochures, read about all the places to go, the 3,276 ways to fly to Australia, the 18,539 fares you can choose from, and last week they've gone up, but this week they're down, and how about a super-excursion-dingo-pass-stopover-gutbuster? The good idea of going to Australia begins to sound like hard work. No worries! Let's make a whistle-stop tour, and we'll show you how easy, laid back, informal and relaxing Down Under can be....
A town like "Alice", five hours away through the desert, grew around a natural waterhole in 1871. Alice was the wife of the postmaster general who pioneered the first telegraph line from Darwin to Adelaide. The old telegraph station is a must to visit, as is the Flying Doctor service and the Outback School of the Air. All serving to bring home to you the isolation and eerie wonder of the Australian Outback.
Along the coast of Queensland are wide flat sandy beaches. Towns like Cairns and Townsville provide a springboard for excursions to the ocean or inland to the scenic Kurunda railway and Atherton Tablelands. All of Queensland offers us an outdoor life of land and water sports, adventure and quiet marine calm. After spending your day overfilling your senses, look up to the black velvet sky studded with stars and find the Southern Cross--then you'll really believe that you have been to Australia.
Whatever your dream, Australia will fulfil and surpass your expectations. So come and say G'day, all dreams start here!
Bugs, grubs and a croc named Sweetheartby Kaye Thomas"Them ones are better cooked!" our Aboriginal guide Ernie shouted, tossing a handful of writhing maggot-like creatures--or Witchetty grubs, as they are known--into the ashes of the fire in front of us. My stomach turned at the possibility of being the next victim to sample this renowned Aboriginal delicacy. A weird selection of bush tucker, such as unusual looking berries, leaves, honey ants and other wriggly things, lay at our feet. The traditional inhabitants of Arnhem Land still adopt the ancient hunting and gathering techniques of their forefathers. To them, the Australian desert is an oasis, abundant with exotic foods. To the visiting tourist, it seems like a barren wasteland where the inexperienced would surely starve. The Northern Territory is definitely a special place. World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park is like an ancient, outdoor museum brimming with ancient Aboriginal rock art and dramatic landscapes. Swimming in the rock pools and waterfalls in the various National Parks that cover the Territory, I tried to wipe images of "Sweetheart" and her relatives from my mind. "Sweetheart" was a five-metre saltwater croc, who carved a career for herself munching through local fishermen's outboard motors. She now takes pride of place in the local museum in Darwin. In my adventure filled weeks, I floated among green turtles in the calm, azure waters above the world's largest reef garden, scaled the dizzy heights of Ayers Rock at sunrise, explored the world's largest sand island by four-wheel drive, and came face to face with a possum who certainly pushed the boundaries of friendship. (Never leave remnants of late night snacks by your bedside on the islands!) Each day had brought a variety of new experiences and challenges that could only abound in a country as wild and varied as Australia. We stayed on a coral cay right on the Barrier Reef, slept out under the stars in a bushman's swag and even awoke one dawn under a rainforest canopy to a cacophony of king parrots, kookaburras and whip birds. As Ernie placed a steaming maggot on a gum leaf and held it in front of me, I calmly wondered whose spirit I was about to devour. "Hell, this is Australia--try anything once!" echoed in the back of my mind.
Australia the second or third time aroundby Charmaine HallmarkSo you've been once, and you’ve never forgotten it and it’s made you wonder... What’s the rest of it like? It’s a ‘Call’ and your curiosity rises, and your memories of the adventure, the sunshine and the friendly people call you again. Air fares have never been so competitive, upgrades and stopovers so affordable. A three-week break from the old grind is not so much to ask for is it? And soon you’re off--off on that huge 747 flight climbing high and heading off to the land of the Billabong tree! Most first-time visitors’ must-see places include Sydney, the Rock and the Reef--but what about second or third timers? I can show you an Australia as wonderful and exciting, and as different and diverse from your previous trip. And because you’ve been before, you’ll settle in and feel at home within a few hours of arrival. That’s what love affairs with Australia are all about! My last visit to Australia was to the Bungle Bungles--a remote land form of striking beehive dome shapes in Purnululu National Park, Western Australia. They were only ‘discovered’ in 1983, yet they were formed over 360 million years ago. Their most striking feature is the tiger stripes on each dome--orange and black layers of sandstone with a protective iron oxide coating, giving its rusty look. Fascinating to all you geologists out there, and an amazing sight for us ordinary folk! I spent just one day there, flying by small plane from Kununurra over Lake Argyle. The journey took an hour, and I realised just how remote and far away I was travelling, when gradually, far on the horizon, in the eerie grey mists, they loomed into sight. As we flew closer the shapes and colours became more distinguishable until there were thousands and thousands of domes as far as the eye could see. I was extremely lucky, there had been rain, and the gorges and waterfalls were clearly visible as we flew in dangerously close, to take our pictures. We landed on a small airstrip and walked through the domes, close enough to touch them. The trails were easy and safe, and because of the recent rain the rivers were running and the gorges were filled. I couldn’t resist the cold, clean, clear water and stood under the gushing waterfall in my underwear! It was wonderful! Lunch was salad and cold chicken, fresh melon and fruit--and it was delicious! All too soon we were waving goodbye to the Bungle Bungles and as I settle into my seat I imagined my footprints left behind in the muddy gorge are some of the first in 360 million years!
Australia: let the dream become reality Ever since I was a child I have dreamt of travelling to Australia, and in April that dream came true. The big adventure began with our Qantas Airways flights on their refurbished 747s--good legroom seats, adjustable headrests, edible food and attentive crew.
After a few days' rest and relaxation in Bali we arrived in the cosmopolitan city of Melbourne. Located on the banks of the river Yarra, we found Melbourne to have a very European "chic" feel to it, with superb restaurants and shopping. The botanical gardens are perfect for a few hours' quiet contemplation, whilst for a touch of nostalgia, dinner on board the Colonial Tramcar Restaurant is a must! The adventure continued with a short hop up to Sydney. I shall never forget the complete "wow" factor of that first afternoon in Sydney. Realisation that I was actually on the other side of the world hit me whilst sitting on the quay side, watching life go by in the harbour, as the sun set on the Opera House--just a magical moment. The atmosphere of Sydney is unique--life revolves around the water and businessmen, tourists and locals all live life side by side. There are so many things to see and do in Sydney that I could write pages about it, but three things particularly stay in my mind: take a trip up the Sydney Tower for magnificent views of the city; explore the city from the water on a ferry, launch or cruiser; and visit the northern suburbs around Neutral Bay and Manly. We were also lucky enough to attend a concert by the Sydney Symphony Orchestra at the Opera House--the building really is an awesome structure and the acoustics are just fabulous. Too soon we had to tear ourselves away from Sydney as we hired a car for a few days and headed west out of the city into the Blue Mountains area. We were not disappointed as the scenery is stunning and if you stay for a night or two like we did, you can enjoy the beauty without the crowds once the tour buses have left for the day or before they arrive! Driving in Australia is so easy--empty roads, air conditioned automatic car, and they drive on the left like at home! An hour’s flight north to Brisbane took us to our next stop at Surfers Paradise about 50 kilometres south of the city. Although I had read about the shadows cast across the beach in the afternoon by the skyscrapers, I hadn't quite believed it--but it is true! And yes the surfing here does live up to its name! A short helicopter trip along the coastline is breathtaking and doesn’t cost the earth. This area is perfect for a few days to unwind after a hectic sightseeing schedule, and children will love the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary and Seaworld. Our last stop on this adventure was Port Douglas, just north of Cairns on the Great Barrier Reef. The town is situated on Four Mile Beach which needs no explanation and is just the most incredible beach you have ever seen! But beware of the jellyfish at certain times of year! As you would expect there are many fantastic seafood restaurants here, and you can take a trip out to do some deep-sea fishing of your own. Most of the hotels are set just outside the town, but with a shuttle bus operating the loop between hotels, beach, town centre, marina and back again every 20 minutes there is no problem with access. From the marina a huge range of trips out to the Great Barrier Reef is on offer, ranging from large catamarans accommodating 250 people to smaller craft taking 25 people. All are well organised and you can swim, snorkel, learn to dive, use glass bottom boats--whichever you choose it will certainly be a highlight of your trip. A car is probably the easiest way to explore this part of Queensland--Cairns is only an hour’s drive south from here, don't miss out on a visit to the Tjapakai Aboriginal Cultural Park or the Skyrail to Kuranda. A beautiful experience is taking a balloon flight at sunrise over the Atherton Tablelands, and for a real taste of adventure head north to Mossman Gorge and into the tropical rainforest--a boat ride on the crocodile infested river is optional! Our three weeks exploring some of the east coast of Australia soon disappeared, but it certainly was an experience to treasure. However, we only really scratched the surface of what this diverse continent has to offer, and this trip has whetted our appetites to explore some more. Now where are those brochures?...
Discover the wonders of South AustraliaWhen planning a trip to Australia, most people choose Sydney, Cairns and Ayers Rock, especially if it's their first visit. I was one of those people! That is, until I discovered South Australia, the Festival State! Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, is the perfect place to start your holiday. The city has excellent shopping, museums and galleries, gourmet restaurants and lively cafes. Adelaide's rail connections mean you can board the famous Ghan to Melbourne or Alice Springs--a perfectly relaxing way to experience Australia's dramatic scenery.South Australia is famous for its wine. A visit to the National Wine Centre is great fun. If you don't know anything about wine, you will by the end of this tour! Feel the buzz when you buy a bottle of Jacobs Creek or Harvey's from the place it was actually made! One piece of advice though: book your trip to Barossa by the wine-train or coach--driving can hinder your wine tasting! Not far from the city is the Outback. The Murray River offers peace, relaxation and a variety of accommodation, from paddle steamers to luxurious houseboats. Your Outback tour should include Wilpena Pound, a natural amphitheatre in the Flinders National Park; Arkaroola in the Gammon Ranges, an incredible observatory for star gazers; and the four-wheel-drive Ridge Top Tour, an exhilarating scenic 'roller coaster'! Unique Kangaroo Island, twenty minutes by air from Adelaide, is the place to be if you want to see wildlife in its completely natural habitat. Walking on the beach, close enough to touch the huge seals basking in the sun, was amazing. So, don't skip over the South Australia pages in your brochure, come and discover all its wonders for yourself!
A short escape and a taste of Australia I was thrilled to be offered a flying visit to Australia, hosted by Qantas Holidays, stopping at Los Angeles and Fiji on the way.
Los Angeles was our first stopover city. For the tourist there is plenty to see and do--from the glamour of Beverley Hills to the beaches of Malibu, and the colourful area of China Town and Little Tokyo. Our next stop was Fiji and what a wonderful place. We arrived as the sun was coming up on this truly magical island. Fiji has an inviting tropical climate, lush vegetation and white sandy beaches. Whilst there we took a day cruise to Tivua Island where we enjoyed a specially prepared barbecue, swam in the crystal-clear waters and relaxed on the deserted beaches. It was hard to leave this magical place as I fell in love with the Island and the friendly people and their culture. But it was time to say goodbye as we headed off to our final destination--Sydney--only four hours away. My first view of the Opera House really took my breath away. Sitting by the Sydney Harbour Bridge, having lunched on fresh lobster at one of the many harbourside bistros, I had to pinch myself to make sure I was really there. Sydney is full of life and boasts fabulous shopping, has wonderful wines and take in the breathtaking views along the way. To complete this wonderful adventure, I was to fly home Club Class with British Airways. If you can, treat yourself to this excellent service with its excellent cuisine, comfortable seating and attentive staff. What a wonderful way to fly...! |
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No time to linger longer now, our whistle-stop tour continues to the mysterious Red Centre--there, dominating the landscape for miles around, is Ayers Rock, a giant monolith, sacred to the aborigines. We realise our "new" country is in fact thousands and thousands of years old as we witness their chalk drawings in caves at the base of the rock. Climbing the rock is a feat for the fit, but it doesn't lose any of its magic if you don't take up the challenge.
Now let's travel to the tropics and turn from history to geography, botany and astronomy! The Great Barrier Reef is the world's largest living organism and visible from the moon! The Reef stretches for more than 2,000 kilometres of submerged tropical gardens. In among them the sea is sprinkled with hundreds of paradise islands. There are many ways to appreciate the coral and its rainbow of coloured fish. You can stay dry in a glass-bottom boat, snorkel on the surface or dive as deep as you please with scuba gear. Some islands are self-contained resorts, others, rain forest wonders and some mere sand dunes at the start of their evolution.
Out of breath? And we haven't mentioned Kakadu, Crocodile Dundee country, the Bungle Bungles in Western Australia, Philip Island and its phenomenon of penguins at Melbourne, Brisbane and the Gold Coast or the National Heritage Haven of Tasmania.
