La Source, Grenada

As I lay there, covered only by a towel awaiting my first ever massage, I had to confess to some feelings of apprehension. I needn't have worried, however, and over the next two weeks I happily sampled every other "treatment" offered, from reflexology and aromatherapy to seaweed wraps and salt and oil loofah rubs. We were at La Source, a wonderful, small all-inclusive resort situated on Pink Gin Beach on the beautiful Caribbean island of Grenada. It may sound a bit like a West Indian health farm, but it is far removed from that. Certainly the aim is to revitalise and relax both body and mind but there is no question of existing on carrot juice and the odd lettuce leaf. The food is excellent and with an extremely attentive staff your glass is rarely empty. If you prefer to eat, drink and laze in the sun, with perhaps the odd massage now and again, you can. The record is apparently held by one guest who gained 20 pounds over the course of two weeks! For the more active there is a full complement of sports and instruction from tennis and golf to archery, fencing and the whole range of water sports. Yoga, meditation and Tai Chi classes are also held, while for those preferring a vigorous workout as a stress antidote, there is a well equipped gym and all forms of aerobics and stretch classes. Above all, the staff at the hotel, like all the local people, were some of the most delightful and charming you would be likely to encounter and contributed greatly to the warm and informal atmosphere of the resort.

It was a week before we had any inclination to venture outside the resort's grounds. When we did, we found Grenada to be one of the most beautiful of the Caribbean islands, with mountains rising to over 2,000 feet covered by a lush rain forest. The island is known as the Spice Island because so many spices grow there, particularly nutmeg, where it is the world's number one producer. For the more active there are hikes into the mountains to some wonderful waterfalls or catamaran trips to the Grenadines. Others may prefer to visit the bustling market in the capital Georgetown, tour a rum distillery (their rum is 70 per cent alcohol!), or have lunch in one of the old plantation houses. Wherever you go, you will meet very friendly and charming people.

Grenada has not been developed as much as many of the other Caribbean islands and has so far escaped (dare I say it?) the ravages of mass tourism. The memories of steel bands, barbecues and rum punches around the pool under the stars, and not forgetting the massages, will remain with us. We hope to return.

Back to top

Antigua: a paradise isle

I accepted a generous invitation from my daughter, Charmaine and her husband, John to join them on their family holiday, planned mainly for relaxation.

The location chosen was ideal! From the moment we set foot in Antigua we found ourselves in a different world--a warm, welcoming, carefree world, where hustle and bustle was not the order of the day, and time was of little consequence.

The views from our villa in Antigua Village on Condo Beach were truly serene and inspirational. The gentle waters of the calm Caribbean Sea lapping the shore, lined with coconut palms growing in unspoiled splendour. While all around us, the tropical gardens, lush and luxuriant, were enhanced by the richness of colour. In my mind's eye I can still see the many varieties of multicoloured crotons...the climbing, ornamental bougainvillaea, their long, slender arms displaying masses of flowers enclosed in paper-like bracts in varied shades and hues from red to deep magenta...hosts of spectacular canna lilies standing proud and tall...plants and shrubs, oleander, hibiscus, spider lilies, in full-blooming profusion--intermingling with heavily laden fruit trees: banana, lime and pomegranate, to name but a few. Palms gracing the area around the freshwater swimming pool--while the large, spreading flamboyant flame tree invites us to shade from the burning sun, under its sheltering branches. At sunrise, when the sun was at its kindest, we decided on our own individual choices to start the day: a dip in the warm sea, a cup of tea on the beach, or an extra lie-in. I spent the early hours imbibing the fresh sights and fragrant smells of the gardens on a new day, while watching in amazement the aerobatic antics of petite exotic birds and hovering humming birds. Faithful dawn visitors who came to sip the nectar from the flowers and drink the fresh juices of the hanging fruit, which they pierced with their sharp beaks. A very healthy breakfast indeed!

The Cenotaph in the St John area is conspicuous--a memorial to the men who lost their lives in the two world wars. We shopped in the Arcade, and bargained with street traders in the area around Redcliffe Quay, which was once part of a large slave-holding compound.

The silent windmills stand in mute testimony at Betty's Hope. The sight brought to mind poignant memories of vast sugar plantations and slave labour. Betty, in the long ago, had hoped that no slave in her charge died after the torturous practice of branding!

We visited Nelson's Dockyard in the heart of the National Park--once (1700) one of Britain's main naval bases. Landlocked bases formed within an old volcano cone with a narrow passage to the sea. Now, a major Caribbean yachting centre, placid and picturesque.

We were treated to an interesting fifteen-minute show at the Dow Hill's Interpretation Centre, where we gained an enlightened insight into Antigua's history, people and culture.

We drove to a high point in the National Park, Shirley Heights Lookout. Once a British signal station giving warning of approaching enemy ships, named after General Shirley, Governor of the Leeward Islands 1780. The impressive vista was breathtakingly beautiful--but thoroughly enjoyable was the non-stop music provided by the Caribbean steel band with barbecue, jump-up and ambience, held in the Ordnance Building where once shot was stored!

To stand on Devil's Bridge and witness nature's handiwork over the centuries, we went out to an extreme eastern point of the island. We climbed high up over the rocks and gazed in awe at the amazing spectacle: powerful, thunderous Atlantic breakers swept in at the end of a 3000-mile fetch from Africa, with enormous swells and pounding energy. The lower part of the rock has been worn away and a natural limestone arch has been carved out with spectacular blowholes created, through which the spouting surf crashed out onto the rocks. We can only gaze and contemplate the wonder of it all!

We came into contact with many local people from different walks of life. Our impression is that they are a very agreeable, very helpful, deeply religious people who lead simple, uncomplicated lives. On a Sunday morning, places of worship are full to capacity with families young and old in the Sunday best. We chose to join the congregation in the Catholic Church. It was a happy, uplifting experience!

At sunset time, in the cool of the evening, on most days of our vacation we took our ritual, leisurely, family, mile-long walk along the pink Sands of Dickenson Bay in the cool sea breeze with the sea at our feet. We talked about the events of the day as we walked down to the cliff at the end of they bay and back again to Antigua Village--the climax to each day.

Antigua--a little, peaceful island lying in the Caribbean, bathed in sunshine, beauty and simplicity, where one can value the quiet moments of one's life, and balance one's lifestyle with true contentment.

In the words of the poet William Blake:

Back to top

Antigua: a winter's tale

December 3rd 2000 was a cold and miserable day. The whole country was struggling with floods, ice and gales. However, for the two of us, things were about to change drastically. At 9.30 that Sunday morning we boarded a flight to the sun-kissed Caribbean island of Antigua.

It was all thanks to Hallmark Travel, JMC Airlines and Rex Resorts. Why? It goes back to last July, when Hallmark Travel celebrated their tenth birthday by holding a travel show in East Grinstead. And what a fascinating show it was! I spent hours visiting all the stands, asking questions as I planned our holidays for the next two or three years. At the same time I was completing Hallmark Travel's travel quiz. I was thrilled when Charmaine Hallmark rang later that week congratulating me on winning an all expenses paid holiday to the Rex Halcyon Cove Hotel in Antigua. I rushed for my atlas and found that Anitgua is situated in the Leeward Islands right in the heart of the Caribbean. Lilian and I didn't sleep for days, we were so excited!

On our arrival in Antigua several things instantly struck me: the lovely warm climate, a balmy 30 degrees; the lovely fresh, clean air with a multitude of beautiful smells from the abundance of exotic plants and flowers; and the amiability of the people. Everyone was happy and relaxed, which was very apparent having just left England a few days before Christmas!

The Rex Halcyon Cove is located on the northwest tip of the island, in beautiful Dickenson Bay. Antiuga has 365 beautiful sandy beaches, and I think Rex Halcyon Cove is on the best one. The welcome at the hotel was overwhelming, and everything from then on was perfect.

We spent two glorious weeks lazing on the well kept white sandy beaches, lying on very comfortable sun beds, occasionally swimming in the warm Caribbean Sea, refreshing ourselves at the well stocked bar and barbecue right on the beach. Paradise! The hotel's food and service was out of this world, and every evening had a themed menu followed by some excellent entertainment ranging from fire-eaters and limbo dancers to a wonderful steel orchestra.

We spent a couple of days touring the island by road and sea. I was pleased to see that it is still very British and proud to be so. They are anxious to maintain their history and some parts have remained unchanged since Nelson saw them in the eighteenth century.

A last memory I must mention is being in a tropical location just before Christmas. Seeing decorated Christmas trees and hearing Christmas carols in a warm climate is a very strange feeling indeed!

Thank you Hallmark, Rex Resorts and JMC for the Caribbean icing on our Christmas cake!

Back to top

The islands of the Bahamas

There are many things to see and do whilst staying around Nassau. Visit the STRAW MARKET, take a horse and carriage ride, climb the water tower for wonderful island views, visit the Pompey Museum to learn the local history, try your luck in one of the casinos, play a round of golf or tennis or just relax on one of the beautiful beaches. The sea, of course, also plays a big part in the daily activities, and a whole host of day trips are offered--one of the highlights of my trip was a day out with Powerboat Adventures. A thrilling powerboat ride out to the EXUMAS started the day and then we fed grapes to the resident inhabitants of ALLEN CAY--iguanas! Followed by a close encounter with stingrays, a snorkel safari across coral reefs, petting friendly wild boar, a barbecue lunch, plus, for real brave souls, an underwater viewing experience with sharks. Wow!

All this excitement needs lots of energy, so it is fortunate that Bahamians are passionate about their food! There is a wide selection of restaurants available, from local Bahamian to Italian, French, American and even Indian. Don't forget to try the local Conch (pronounced Conk) in a salad, as fritters or even cracked! You will see the Conch shells with their beautiful pink hues around the hotel grounds, on beaches, along pathways and gardens and they are even sold as ornaments! Why not find your own when diving or snorkelling! With so many islands forming the Bahamas, it is a shame not to visit at least one smaller island. The FAMILY ISLANDS, as they are called, change the pace of the holiday and give you time to unwind.

With daily connections flying with Bahamasair, island-hopping is easy, fun and adds another dimension to your holiday. ABACO is famous for sailing and boat charters, the BIMINIS for deep-sea fishing and wild dolphin encounters, and the EXUMAS for world-class diving and snorkelling. I fell in love with HARBOUR ISLAND, with its stunning pink sand beach and pretty pastel-coloured clapboard houses and it was great fun exploring the island in a little golf cart! The Ramora Bay Club is a romantic hideaway with riotously colourful gardens leading down to a small pool and sundeck; and as I sipped my Pina Colada watching the sun set on the horizon I relaxed in the knowledge that I had found my very own 'paradise island'.

Back to top

Barbados: just beyond your imagination

How very privileged to be invited once again by my daughter Charmaine and her husband John to join their family on their summer Caribbean holiday to Barbados.

We stepped out excitedly from the plane onto Barbados soil, feeling the warm sunshine, breathing in its air of freedom and prosperity. Amid the hustle and bustle of tourists pouring in, had this little island now forgotten its turbulent past? Driving out of the airport, unmistakably there for all to see was their source of inspiration for faith and hope. High on a pedestal, impressive and imposing, in the middle of a busy roundabout, was a giant black stone statue: a freed slave with chains that bound him hanging from his outstretched hands. Thought provoking!

Treasure Beach, our haven for our stay, was a small, perfectly charming, intimate hotel, prettily secluded by gardens and palms.

Each day we drove through selected routes on the island, savouring the sights, the scenic panorama and vistas, the sugar cane and banana plantations, the markets--but we chose to spend some extra time on three different places of interest.

The capital BRIDGETOWN. What greater thrill than to stand on the bridge, on the spot where, far back in 1628, a tiny group of British settlers first set foot! But the country was born again on their Independence Day, 30 November 1966. The Careenage is now proudly flying the Barbadian flag over Independence Arch, inscribed with the nation's motto and pledge of allegiance. The Careenage is now a picturesque scene of activity--a parking space for numerous sleek yachts! At the hub of the city, surrounded by parliamentary, commercial and public buildings, lies Trafalgar Square--a patch of green and a statue of Nelson on a short column and a World War I memorial.

Walking through the colourful, sprawling ANDROMEDA BOTANICAL GARDENS was indescribably pleasant. Nature, in all its tropical wild profusion and splendour, clawing its roots into coral boulders strewn over the hillside; the serenity only enhanced by ponds and waterfalls.

We couldn't leave Barbados without a visit to the world famous KENSINGTON OVAL the island's premier cricket ground. The game is a national passion, turning out brilliant world-class cricketers. We watched from the stands as John trod the hallowed grounds!

Barbados is a country steeped in history and tropical beauty. So much to see, hear, learn and enjoy! But the island's greatest asset is its people--welcoming, warm and friendly.

Back to top

St Lucia: simply beautiful

First of all, I stayed in the north of the island at the WINDJAMMER LANDING VILLA BEACH RESORT. This unique resort is situated on St Lucia's west coast nestled in 55 acres of lush tropical forested hillside overlooking its own sandy bay. It is ideal for families because of the flexibility of offering villa accommodation within a full-service hotel.

For the next part of the trip we headed to the south of the island. A 45-minute boat ride took us from the port of CASTRIES to SOUFRIERE. To the south, dense rainforest and the stunning PITON MOUNTAINS dominate the landscape.

Our next couple of nights were spent in the JALOUSIE HILTON RESORT. The hotel enjoys one of the best locations in the Caribbean because it is situated in between the spectacular Pitons. Jalousie was once the site of an 18th century Sugar Mill estate and it offers secluded luxury in 325 acres.

Whilst in the south of the island you can visit many attractions such as the SULPHUR SPRINGS, MT GIMIE, the NATIONAL RAIN FOREST, DIAMOND FALLS and the LATILLE GARDENS. I personally visited the spectacular Diamond Falls and the Sulphur Springs. Bathing in the mud from the springs is reported to make you look ten years younger!

For the last two nights of the trip, we travelled back up to the north. Our last hotel was the all-inclusive resort of LE SPORT. This is the ideal 'body holiday', with the opportunity to revive, tone and be pampered. Two treatments a day are included in the holiday price, so there is no excuse but to relax and enjoy yourself. I had an aromatherapy massage and it was pure bliss!

This brought me to the end of my trip to St Lucia. The island is absolutely stunning and I will never forget swimming in the sea being watched over by the Piton Mountains. I can't wait to return.

Back to top

Tobago, an idyllic Caribbean destination

I was thrilled to say "Yes!" when Charmaine asked me if I would like to join a group of travel agents on an educational visit to Tobago. I flew from Gatwick direct to Tobago with Monarch Airlines, and it is amazing to think that in just eight hours I found myself in the Caribbean sunshine.

Our first day in Tobago was spent on a glass-bottomed boat admiring the coral on Buccoo Reef, swimming in the Nylon Pool and enjoying a barbecue. We listened to a steel band and did the limbo on a beach known as No Man's Land! It was sheer bliss as there was not another soul in sight.

As I got to know Tobago I realised that Tobagans are truly friendly and willing, helping to make their visitors feel as comfortable as possible. Whilst in Tobago I was also able to enjoy a sunset catamaran cruise. With the wind filling the sails we all enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing hour around Buccoo Reef and Pigeon Point.

Turning inland, we discovered the lush rainforest situated on the eastern part of the island. The rainforest plays host to many species of wildlife, especially birds, as well as providing a wonderful display of tropical flora such as bougainvillea and orchids.

After my visit I am convinced that Tobago is everything you dream a Caribbean destination to be. It has something to offer everyone: lush rainforest, spectacular bird watching, diving for both advanced and novice divers, or simply just a haven to relax, unwind and enjoy. Tobago is my number one destination!

Back to top

The BVIs (Best Vacation Ideas!)

"Wow! How can the sea be so many different hues of blue?" was my first thought as we started our descent into Beef Island. The British Virgin Islands are made up of a chain of sixty islands where the Atlantic ocean meets the Caribbean sea. They are a haven for water sports enthusiasts, and newlyweds or old romantics. There are no high-rise hotels, casinos or nightclubs-so perfect for getting away from it all and letting time slip by.

We visited three islands. The first was Virgin Gorda, just eight-and-a-half miles long. Panoramic views in all directions and plenty of secluded beaches. A curious formation of huge boulders, called The Baths, has formed a natural playground of swimming pools, waiting to be explored. For those who want to take in a little history, a visit to the Copper Mine is a must. Some of the hotels on Virgin Gorda are so remote that they are only accessible by boat-real Caribbean paradise.

Next--Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands and the hub of the chain. It has something for everyone, all types of accommodation, a variety of restaurants, plenty of beaches and sightseeing.

And finally, Peter Island! A private island of 1,800 acres, and only accessible by boat or helicopter. Guest numbers are strictly limited so the beaches are deserted. And off my own secluded beach I snorkelled over the coral reef and swam among the fish-an experience I will never forget. It was hard to drag myself away from this most idyllic location!

Back to top

Jammin' in Jamaica

Mountainous and beautiful, Columbus described it as 'the fairest island that eyes have beheld'. It is the third largest of the Caribbean islands, with lush forests, rushing rivers and superb beaches.

Montego Bay, Jamaica's tourist capital, and Ocho Rios is where I met and fell in love with Jamaica. Mo'bay's bustling city centre, vendor stalls and waterfront is an exciting place for shopping and eating, but close by in the forested highlands of Rockland Bird Sanctuary you can feed tiny hummingbirds from handheld bottles of sugar water. Also nearby is Rose Hall-a fascinating Grand House of the Plantation times-the home of Annie Palmer, the White Witch of Rose Hall who murdered three husbands and a string of slave lovers before meeting her own gory end!

In its more recent history, Bob Marley brought fame to Jamaica. His songs of peace and liberation, the reggae beat and rhythms sound throughout the Caribbean and hallmark its unique atmosphere to all the world.

But just west of Ochio Rios is where I'll stay! At Dunns River Falls, a cool mountain waterfall tumbles 600 feet down a series of ledges through the forest to the coast. We held hands and daisy chained up the slippery route to the top. It's perfectly safe, but you still stare aghast at the challenge. Afterwards we made the acquaintance of some very friendly dolphins at Dolphins Cove. We swam, jumped, twirled and snuggled up to these beautiful creatures. The experience is ethereal!

So Jamaica, farewell! But not goodbye--I'll be back!

Back to top

The Body Holiday - Le Sport, St Lucia

Returning to the same place for a holiday can sometimes prove to be a mistake. It often doesn’t quite measure up to the fist visit. This was certainly not the case for us when we went to embark on our second cruise on the Star Clipper’s magnificent Royal Clipper, the 42-sail square rigged clipper ship that cruises the Caribbean in the winter and the Med in the summer. The second trip was as wonderful as the first and we would sail again a third time! Totally different from the huge resort style cruise ships, Royal Clipper has to be the ultimate Caribbean cruise experience.

Our second week was spent in St Lucia, an island we first visited some 25 years ago. This is still a very beautiful island, with pristine and deserted beaches, just as remembered then. We stayed at Le Sport, situated in its own attractive, secluded bay at the northern end of the island. This is the sister hotel to La Source in Grenada and offers the same all-inclusive facilities on a slightly larger scale. They call it the ‘Body Holiday’ and with good reason, as there is a magnificent spa facility built almost in the style of an oriental temple, offering every form of massage, aromatherapy, hydrotherapy and every other treatment imaginable. Two treatments a day are included and coupled with a well equipped fitness centre, a complete range of water and other sports, meditation and yoga sessions etc, there is no excuse for not returning home in a well honed and totally refreshed and relaxed condition.

Fortunately, for those less athletically inclined there is no compulsion to do other than enjoy the sun and a good book and still return home relaxed and refreshed! Whichever you prefer, this is the perfect way to escape the English winter.

• Virgin Atlantic now fly non-stop to St Lucia and their Premium Economy on the 747’s top deck is excellent.

Back to top

Grenada - the Spice of the Caribbean

Located on the southern-most tip of the Windward Islands, Grenada and her islands of Carricou and Petit Martinique enjoy an average year-round temperature of 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Our hotel The Flamboyant boasted wonderful views of Grand Anse beach and the capital St George beyond. St George is steeped in history with three military forts offering outstanding views of what is considered the prettiest harbour in the Caribbean. Market Square is a lively, bustling place where the air is filled with the aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and ginger. We spent a day visiting some of Grenada’s main attractions. The Gouyave and Grenville Nutmeg Processing Station, Laura’s Herb and Spice Garden, Concorde Falls (one of the many beautiful cascading waterfalls on the island) and Lake Antoine, a 16-acre lake within the crater of an extinct volcano. We were treated to lunch at Morne Fendue, an old plantation house and then onto the River Antoine Distillery. Tours here cost $1, which includes a taste of the finished rum, an experience once tried never forgotten.

A trip to Grenada would not be complete without joining the Carriacou and Sandy Island day trip. Carriacou is just 60 minutes by fast ferry and well worth the trip, we were lucky and saw dolphins and flying fish on the way. The tour took us to all the sites and then by speed boat for a couple of hours relaxing on Sandy Island before our return to Grenada in time for a Pina Colada while listening to the steel band and watching the sun go down. Grenada has so much to offer, whether you are looking for five-star luxury, affordable family friendly hotels, self-catering or guesthouses; a range of restaurants, serving exquisite Caribbean food, some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, world class diving, waterfalls and rainforests; and above all the welcoming friendliness of the Grenadians. All this on a small Caribbean island I would call Paradise.

Back to top

• La Source, Grenada
• Antigua: a paradise isle
• Antigua: a winter's tale
• The islands of the Bahamas
• Barbados: just beyond your imagination
• St Lucia: simply beautiful
• Tobago, an idyllic Caribbean destination
• The British Virgin Islands
• Jammin' in Jamaica
• The Body Holiday - Le Sport, St Lucia
• Grenada - the spice of the Caribbean

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

Fill in this form if you would like more information on the Caribbean. Name Address Postcode Email When are you planning to travel? What sort of holiday are you looking for? Tailor-made Package tour Cruise Flight only Other Your enquiry

USEFUL LINKS

Amazon.co.uk Books